I didn't watch Noah Baumbach's White Noise (2022). My friend Max watched it and said it was a crude, disappointing perversion of de Lillo, and took down his Instagram Story showing the film's title reflected in the glint of his phone camera almost as soon as he put it up. Even though it was a weeknight, I told him he was our "Weekend Warrior": his efforts were heroic, in that because he watched the film, no one else has to.
"Like a good neighbor", though, meaning as insurance against, heaven forbid, complete critical surrender, I did read the Anthony Lane review of White Noise in the New Yorker, thinking as I always do when reading Lane about the time that, early in the MeToo era, he got in trouble for bemoaning Lola Kirke's baggy costumes in Gemini (2018)—which I can only imagine, having also not seen that movie, were distressing because she had for a co-star the never not immaculate Zoë Kravitz. Moreover, Gemini followed on the heels of Kirke's loose bravura arc over Mozart in the Jungle's final seasons. Lane must have been missing glammed-up, hirsute "Lola": it can hurt to see the voluptuous dampened. I looked to his write-up of White Noise for this same sort of mildewed meta-comedy. And delivering on that prospect, Lane remarks: because the film is so delightfully ridiculous, what Baumbach needs is a musical A-S-A-P.
Which is how I discovered, basically on accident, that White Noise concludes with a dance number staged inside a suburban supermarket. Supermarket choreography has been an obsession of mine since I was a nine year old ballet student, when one day, my dance teacher neglected to bring in her usual records and instead played us tapes she had bought at a grocery store. Word of this "newfangled" supermarket music was quick to spread across her classes: it was something special and anomalous, a thrilling departure from our pianoforte monotony. I'm not sure that I ever knew or cared to know what kind of music it really was, only that it possessed a mythic charge, representing a release from muffling tradition into the pure freedom of pop commerce. It tendered the suggestion that, through a shared investment in sculpting meter into form, low American culture could merge frictionlessly with high European classical movement. In this it served the ontic purpose of validating our project as present-day dance students.
And so, each spring when my teacher would collect ideas for an all-ages showcase, I would eagerly propose creating from the supermarket music a supermarket ballet: I pictured elaborate set designs and ensemble groupings, in the style of the Astaire and Rogers joints I was watching and would later discover in Busby Berkeley. My teacher rightfully dismissed the "supermarket ballet" as an impractical fantasy, for which one would need Baumbach's Netflix-level resources. But as a dream, it was deep-seated enough to never leave me, and everywhere I looked for it, I saw traces of its high and low odd coupling: in what was once the "most expensive photograph in the world", Andreas Gursky’s 99 Cent Diptychon (2001), and in sewn works by Tschabalala Self set in bodegas, on display in London and at MoMA PS1 (2017, 2019). A balletic take on the supermarket in life or in art, means an enchantment of the everyday, like any number of tales we construct around commodity-objects, as Roland Barthes explores in his essay collection, Mythologies (1957), bemoaning the availability of cherries all year-round, because where is the pleasure in too much plurality?
The supermarket, and its bodega, deli, and off-license iterations, are alternately intimate and impersonal microcosms of the globalized mass marketplace. As a metonym for an ever renewing capitalist system, the supermarket has been balletically thematized in pieces ranging from Lucy Sparrow’s 2016 felt sculpture reproductions of dry goods, installed in an adorable storefront simulation, to Gabriel Orozco’s Guggenheim commissioned Asterisms (2013), for which the artist collected and arranged the detritus of those goods, and that system, in aisle-like concatenations. I have trailed the genre across multiple countries and viewpoints, encompassing the literature of both supermarket patron in Updike’s short story A&P, assigned for English class my freshman year of high school, and supermarket employee, in Sayaka Murata’s popular Convenience Store Woman (2016), a copy of which I stumbled on while staying in a friend's attic guesthouse in rural Romania.
At university, I knew people who had worked at Tesco—where, the rumor went, everyone was always "fucking in the back rooms"—and people who owned stock in Tesco and people who stole from Tesco, too. With my gig of comically few hours a week pouring wine for graduate students, I was probably closer in an archetypal regard to the literary British loner with a supermarket side job from Claire Louise Bennett’s coming-of-age novel, Checkout 19 (2021). When stateside and low on cash, I am always quick to contemplate applying for a role at Trader Joe's—the ultimate smiley, Disney Institute of Customer Service supermarket—before remembering to what extent it would entail talking to strangers with unfeigned enthusiasm. It is the supermarket’s role as a forum for exchange and circulation between people that gives whatever in us hankers for balletic union a space to be poeticized, as in certain music videos, and movies that are virtually music videos, like that scene from American Honey (2016) when Sasha Lane and Shia LaBoeuf find "love in a hopeless place", or Timothee and Taylor’s copy your homework / change it a little version for their Bones and All (2022) meet-cute. If only NBC Superstore were so elegant.
The supermarket ballet's creative promise also impelled me to commit to personal cinematic memory the poster for the indie film Cashback (2006) showing a white woman, generic but for being bare-breasted, standing in a blurred-out grocery aisle holding a basket. This poster once hung enlarged at my local Blockbuster, as if to keep employees on their toes. The woman's imperial pout, her huntress-like visage, was how I pictured Lady Godiva, or the goddess Diana: standing strong in her shopper's privileges. My friend Lily plans to write an "ethnography of Whole Foods", traversing different locations. The downfall of a Midwest Bro complaining about South Bronx grocery options this past summer had an operatic element. And recently, an account I have followed for a while, @boywaif, tweeted: I had a french professor who once said if you just did something like going to the supermarket and experienced it fully without the goggles of habit and categories you would go crazy with pure sense and joy. I think about it all the time. In a way this is all for him. Now enshrined in the iFunny meme graveyard, boywaif's nod to supermarket jouissance is excerpted alongside another tweet from someone's timeline that advocates treating the world like you are a "benevolent alien".
Those two tweets, Lily's ethnography, and that nude poster each affirm the supermarket's designation as a site for romancing the real. In 2019 and 2020, I drew up a script for a moving image performance piece taking a "humoresque" approach to the original supermarket ballet. @boywaif spoke to the supermarket's saturation with choice, the glory of its offerings unveiled in totality only once conventions have been shirked, when we are ready to be truly tantalized, surrendering to the zing of the plenty. Is DeLillo the prophet of dancing beside cans of Goya beans, jars of JIF and Bonne Maman jelly? Only in the sense of singing language. Through description, writers synthesize the fantastic and the familiar, so that in Baumbach's hands, a family trip to the store becomes a white bread riff on magical realism. In this ex-machina sequence, he coordinates a rhumba across the supermarket's lite-brite mirage of iconized suburbia. It's not what I would do, necessarily, with that same material, but as far as proof-of-concept...Last night was an Instagram Story.
picture: Julie Christie in a London supermarket, 1965. Stars—they're just like us!